When to visit

The "keep my sanity" season 🌟

When: April–May and September–October

This is when Venice is at its best. The weather is pleasant and you're not shuffling along behind thousands of people with selfie sticks. You also dodge the sweltering summer heat and that "canal in the sun" smell.

• The good ✅: Lovely weather, fewer crowds and plenty of life on the streets.
• The bad ❌: Prices are high, so budget accordingly. And don't expect to have it to yourself – the famous spots are still busy.

The "skint but bohemian" option 💸

When: November–February (but steer clear once Carnival kicks off)

If you're on a tight budget and don't mind moody weather, winter is for you. Venice goes full gothic, all fog and melancholy – perfect for atmospheric photos.

• The good ✅: Hotels and flights at bargain prices. Hardly any crowds. You'll even spot actual Venetians (yes, they exist – they come out when the tourists leave).
• The bad ❌: It's cold and very damp. It gets dark early and some sights close sooner than you'd expect.

What on earth is "acqua alta"? 🌊

Literally "high water". Between autumn and winter, the tide sometimes rises higher than usual and floods the lowest parts of the city – starting with St Mark's Square, which is the lowest point of all. It sounds very poetic until lagoon water is up to your shins.

• What happens: Sirens sound across the city a few hours beforehand, a bit like an air-raid warning (don't panic, it's normal). Raised wooden walkways are put out so people can get around without getting wet.
• The good news: Since 2020, the MOSE mobile barriers close off the lagoon when a serious tide is forecast, so major floods are now rare. Moderate tides can still flood St Mark's Square for a few hours, though.
• The trick: If it happens while you're there, don't fret – treat it as part of the experience. Grab some wellies and strut along the walkways like it's a catwalk.